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day eleven - turtles and rapso.

getting up to catch the ferry back to trinidad at 4am in the morning was about as fun as going to the gynecologist. NOT FUN! at all. zero percent 0%. i was so tired. i got about 3 or 4 hours of sleep. i just wanted to go to sleep. it didn't even matter that everyone was late getting out of their rooms because the bus driver was late too. when we finally got to the ferry station though, i was really happy because the line was not as long as it had been when we were going from trinidad to tobago. it was fast too. remember, last time, i was worried that something would get stolen... so this time, i checked my luggage in. they attached a band to my luggage and then gave me a correlating sticky note on my ticket so i could pick it up when we arrived. afterwards, i sat down for about an hour and, just as the sun was rising, it was time to get on the ferry. goodbye tobago!

before, on the way to tobago, i noticed that the chairs by the window laid back. I WAS DETERMINED TO GET ONE OF THESE SEATS ON THE TRIP BACK TO TRINIDAD. lol. it just so happened that dr.turley wanted a window seat too, so i followed her, and we ended up getting two good seats with plenty of leg room. the only thing i didn't like was that it was FREEZING on this ferry. i could feel the cold air just blowing on me. it was so cold, and i had on a little sun dress. i brought my legs up to my chest and stretched my dress over my knees and down to my ankles... and then i took the scarf off of my head and covered my arms. it wasn't much, but it was enough for me to go to sleep for most of the trip back to trinidad. 

when we arrived in trinidad, i had to go pick up my checked-in luggage. checking in my luggage was pretty much a waste of time. i had to basically hunt down my luggage with the rest of the people who had checked in luggage. they had put all the checked luggage on these tables in a cage-like fenced in area. so, you have all these people... in a cage... trying to find their bags. and it was a waste of time because the guy at the door who was supposed to check and make sure that the people who came in there picked up their luggage and no one else's (by checking the little sticky note).... DIDN'T EVEN REALLY LOOK AT MINE. and i dont think he really looked at anyone else's either. he was too busy chatting. so.. really, anyone could come in there with an old ticket and take someone else's luggage.

when we got on the bus, we were informed that we would have to make-up the old rapso class that we had missed because the professor never showed up. i was not happy about that at all. i was so exhausted. i did not feel like making up something i hadn't actually missed... i had sat in that classroom for almost two hours waiting. but, what was i going to do? i had to go. so... i went back to my dorm room and quickly fell asleep. i'm not really good with naps though (even my kindergarten teachers couldn't wake me up from nap time). i just get so deep into them. so, when i had to wake up for class at 1pm, i was not happy at all. luckily, the lecturer was there and on time.

our lecturer was omari ashby and the lecture was over the old rapso tradition. omari was a rapso poet himself and even had a hit record in trinidad and tobago in the 90s. he explained that rapso is a musical genre that believes in the power of the word and the rhythm of the word. it acknowledges the meanings behind words but also acknowledges that part of a word's meaning is in how you say the word. words have rhythm, vibes, and power. as someone that uses made-up words and phrases on a regular basis, i knew exactly what he meant ("basidy".. lol). rapso is kind of like "spoken word" is in the states, but it has trinidad/tobago at its heart.. so, i wouldn't go too far with comparisons.

the most impressive thing we talked about was the history of it because it has african roots. are you familiar with griots? griots were storytellers, musicians, and general all-around entertainers in west african societies. they also were keepers of oral history and were responsible for passing down the history of the villages. of course, during slavery, the people who captured and sold slaves weren't asking "now, what was your previous occupation?" lol. so, some griots were spread around through the slave trade and some of them found themselves in trinidad/tobago where they split into three characters: pierrot grenade (who would make games with words and had a kind of tongue-and-cheek way of making fun of people who use big words), ?shanquil? (who was a call-and-response leader and carried the chants. they were important during labor movements/emancipation), and the midnight robber (lyrical battler.. instilling fear in others using words to see who was the baddest!). all of this, of course, reminded me of hip-hop.

you know... it still amazes me how connected we all are. during slavery, people literally tried to strip away EVERYTHING the africans had... physically.. mentally.. all of it. i mean, the goal was to have the perfect servant for whatever you wanted.. so, to have a robot. they tried to turn humans into robots for hundreds of years... for generations. in america, we always feel so stripped, and.. don't get me wrong.. african-americans are DEFINITELY americans. we are very american. but we have some african in us too. when i see all these veins connecting black people all over the world.. and see traces of our past in our present, it makes me really happy. i mean, that's why i study this stuff in the first place. one thing made me really sad though... omari stressed that music of struggle was at the forefront of every social movement in trinidad/tobago. where is that music at now?

after class, i headed back to my room to chat online with friends and catch up on my news (amy winehouse's death has weighed really heavy on me, but i've tried not to let it get me down). i think i ended up taking another nap too. but soon, it was time to go see some turtles!!! i was actually excited about this. turtles are the only reptiles i can actually deal with (lol), and i got to spend some time with them when i volunteered at the tennessee aquarium in highschool. they're pretty chill animals. trinidad is one of the few places on earth you can see leatherback sea turtles nesting. nearly 80% of all leatherbacks nest in trinidad, so it's a really special thing to see. we headed to matura beach... the trip there was very long and the road was like most roads here... narrow, winding, and scary. then shannon made a joke that the driver was taking us into a remote area to kill us (i mean we were driving on a dirt road at that point!). i laughed it off... until the driver tried to joke around and turn off ALL THE LIGHTS, including the ones inside the van. it was pitch black. my heart started pounding so hard. i was thinking... "well.. i dunno who ima dive over to get to the door but i hope i don't hurt anyone.. " lol. he turned them back on and started laughing. we all shared an uneasy laugh.

when we finally got to the beach, we paid (30TT$) and waited for our walk to begin. our guide walked us down to the beach, along with groups of other people, and we followed him up and down the beach keeping our eyes out for any turtles coming to shore. the turtles only nest at night so we had to walk up and down the beach in the dark with only the stars to light our way. it was quite nice actually. i enjoyed myself. the other people in our pack were really annoying though. they were being loud and flashing their flashlights and cellular phones everywhere, which the guide had told us would scare off the turtles. our chances were already slim since the peak season of nesting is in may and june. so, with them making all kinds of racket, it's no surprise that we didn't get a chance to see any turtles nesting.

i did get to see three shooting stars though! and there was a bat harassing us all night... circling around our group. it was so scary. i kept ducking low to the ground so he would get near me. he was attracted to the flash lights. when we thought it was time to leave, our guide went back to where we started and uncovered a bowl full of little baby turtles that had been spotted and caught earlier. THEY WERE RIDICULOUSLY CUTE. i wanted to hold and cuddle one... but once they started going around, i felt so very bad. it's like... this little baby turtle.. first day above the sand... and all these people are holding it.. and passing it around.. poking and prodding at it.. rubbing and kissing it... flashing bright lights in its eyes. and the entire time this is going on, the little cute turtle is waving its little flippers trying to get away. just flapping as hard as it could and getting no where. little kids were dropping them too. it just seemed eerie and a little bit sad. by the time the turtle got around to me, i hadn't shaken the feeling. so, i didn't even touch it at all. all i could think about was "when are you letting them go (traumatized into the ocean)?"


folks were ready to go before the tour was actually completely over, so we left. and, i slept the entire ride back to campus.

day ten - HEAVEN (tobago)

i woke up early the next morning so that i could go on the trip to see the waterfall at argyle falls. the drive there was full of twists and turns (like just about every drive we've taken.. lol), but the views from the bus were beautiful. we drove right along the coast.

when we got to the argyle falls center, i was so happy because we were told that it would be 60 TT$, but we ended up only having to pay 40TT$. :-D our guide was this quirky little black lady who i could tell took a liking to me because she would just take my camera and tell me to do different poses. lol. like, she had me run down some stairs.. lol.  it was kinda weird, but i liked her. she was really sweet. she asked shannon and i what word we would use to described tobago. i said “beautiful..” … shannon said “amazing.” the lady was like, 
“those are nice words.. but the word i would use is ‘heaven.’”


i was blown away by her answer. she was absolutely right. it was heaven or the closest i've ever been to heaven. she took us through the forest telling us the history of the land, which used to be a cocoa plantation. i felt completely in my element. i love being outdoors. i love going on trails. i was already really happy.. and then, i saw the waterfall. it was absolutely gorgeous.






kenwyn’s fiancĂ©, yakira, convinced me to go behind the waterfall with her (remember my “checkered past” with water.. lol). she held my hand and guided me under it. she’s so nice, and i’m glad she was there. i’m glad i went underneath the water fall too because she was right... it was the best view, even with the water splashing into my eyes. and, the water felt so good on my skin. i felt like i was being baptized by nature… and i loved every minute of it. i sat under the waterfall for a long time just thanking God that i was there. i really did. and i said some prayers. it’s something about being in nature… i can get more spiritual in a forest than i ever can at church.
 
after we were done at the falls, we went back into the main lobby and i got a gatorade and some corn bread! yes, stores sell cornbread as a snack. it tasted kind of like when my mom adds extra cornmeal to "jiffy". it was the perfect snack really. lol. WE NEED IT IN THE STATES! 

we headed back to the room and i tried to get some blog posts up. then, shannon and i headed down to the beach. the sun kept ducking behind clouds and a lot of seaweed had come up on shore. so, the beach wasn’t as nice as it had been the day before. i went in the water with all the other people who were splashing about. i looked down in the clear blue water and a school of little fish were just swimming right next to me. i thought fish were afraid of people! i guess not. i was like, “um… not for me.” lol. i like to eat fish not swim with them. so, i just laid down on my towel, listened to the music that someone was blasting, and ate sugar cake (the sugar/coconut mixture that i am pretty sure i’m addicted to). shannon gave me her sweet mangoes, because she didn’t like them. i was really grateful because i liked them… they tasted like sweet potatoes. 

after an hour or so of beach time, we headed back to the room to eat some more church’s chicken. then, we met up with the group to head to a souvenir shop. there was some nice stuff there but i was too poor to buy anything so i just looked around. afterwards, we headed to a restaurant that had really good cake and icecream. although i love icecream, i wasn’t about to spend any money on dessert when i was still full from earlier. i did want a beer though so we went to a little mini-mart to get one. i thought maybe we would lime, but we had to be up by 4am the next morning to catch the ferry back to trinidad. it just seemed kind of foolish to lime and then do all that traveling. so, i headed back to my room to get a couple of hours of rest.

day nine - why do i get to see this?

after going to sleep at like 3am from liming the night before, it was kind of hard to get up the next morning. (kenwyn told us 10am after we limed even though lavergne had told me 10:30am). while we were just about to leave the room, lavergne came around and told us we would be leaving later. -_- i coulda used those extra minutes of sleep... but whatever. i made some toast (which i was really excited about because i haven't been around a toaster in a while) and chilled out. when we finally made our way to the beach, which was like a block away, i was amazed by its beauty.




clear blue water... soft sand... little colorful beach umbrellas. it was like something from a postcard. along the right side of the beach, there was a line of boats. these boats have glass bottoms (so you could see the ocean floor) and took people out to the coral reefs. we waited a minute and then made our way on to one of the boats. we waited a while for more people to get on the boat and for the crew to get the boat ready to leave. while we waited, the boat was going up and down over the waves. i wasn't getting sick BUT i could see how if i had to do that for a long amount of time, i would get sick. so, i asked lavergne if she had anymore of that seasickness medicine just in case. all she had was pepto bismol. i took a swig of it and then we were off to the reefs.


i had to snorkel. and the only reason i had to do it was because i was in tobago... with the opportunity to do it. if i didn't do it, i'd be a complete loser. but me and water/swimming have a "checkered past". i almost drowned when i was really little in a pool. my mom had to dive in and rescue me out of the deep end of the pool where i had accidently jumped in. then, i remember my mom's family went to whitewaters water park... i was in the wave pool with all my cousins for about, i swear, 5 minutes... and my floating tube flipped over after a wave came and i took in a lot of water and ended up having to sit with my grandma for the rest of the day on the sidelines while everyone else had fun. and she wouldn't let me go back in. lame. i've never really been able to "swim".. i have my own technique which i like to call "staying alive." lol.  and let's NOT forget my run-in with swimming in the ocean for the first time in south africa where i freaked out. i still feel bad about that (sorry jayden for almost drowning you). so... yeah..... i was super nervous but i knew i had to at least try. 

the boat stopped at the main part of the buco reef. the crew let out a lifesaver with a roap attached and people slowly began to get off the boat at different spots along the rope. i waited until the very end because i wanted to be as close to the boat as possible. lol. when i got in, it was... okay. the water was warm and salty. i was close to the boat and holding on to the rope for dear life. this guy on the crew told me to close my mouth and look down in the water. IT WAS CRAZY. there were fish and coral right under neath me. brain coral is my favorite type of coral and it just so happened i was right above one. i looked down a couple of more times then i was like.... "okay... ready to get out of here." i lasted about 3-5 minutes in there. lol. i mean, it was cool and all... but #1, we had on these 1/2 a life vests that they had us wrap around our waists.. i'm thinking "this is not the correct way to wear these." lol. #2, they wanted me to go further out from the boat along the rope... and give the rope some slack. NO. lol #3 im in the middle of the ocean. #4 there are living things underneath my feet and i couldn't tell how far away they were. through the goggles and water, they looked so close that i was afraid i would touch one and i know the people who had jumped off the boat into the water had scraped some of the coral (which actually damages the coral). i'm not trying to touch any coral and i'm definitely not trying to touch any fish. #5 remember those "bake and sharks" i was eating at maracas beach? yeah... there are sharks in the water. #6 i looked at it a couple of times.... ok. i'm amazed... and now i'm over it and ready to get out of the water. and really, it all boils down to #7 i'm not confident enough in my swimming to really be out in the ocean.

 the day before when i was in the pool, i realized that i hadn't gone swimming without my boyfriend since we had been together... so, excluding my freak out in south africa, for over 6 years, he has always been in the water with me. and he's an excellent swimmer.. he loves to swim. he wants to go as soon as it gets warm outside every year.  and when he's there swimming with me, i know he's not going to let me get hurt. so, i'm more confident.. i'll go into the deep end. i'll try to do some laps. i'll try to keep up with him (which is impossible because he's 1/2 merman... lol). even before we were dating, i'm pretty sure he and arielle and random other friends were always there when i went swimming. but he's not here. and neither is anyone i can trust to actually care about my well being. so, was this the time to try to stunt in the water? not for me.

after i got out... all the crew members and some of the people from my trip were calling me a "chicken." which i thought was pretty messed up considering i actually did get in the water.. did look at the coral. i didn't do it for long but i did do it while others didn't do it at all. after being called a chicken, i decided to get back in... but i didn't stay for long (maybe another 5.. lol) because of all the reasons previously stated. the buco reef is amazing. you don't have to get in the water to know that... let alone stay in there for a long time. i was amazed.. and then i was ready to move on.  

after everyone got back on the boat.. we went to an area they call a "pool in the middle of the ocean." in the middle of the ocean, there's this really turquoise, clear water and its only about 3 feet deep. it was absolutely gorgeous. and i enjoyed myself here. it was one of those "why does insignificant me get to see such beauty?" moments.




after the pool.. i went on top of the boat for some sun as we headed back to shore. the crew handed out some coca-cola and sprite and a handful of chips. it wasn't much but it hit the spot! when we got back to the "bed minus breakfast," there was just enough time to shower, eat, and dress for the old time wedding at the hertiage festival. we got there just as the procession was getting close. the old time wedding is a reenactment/performance of the weddings that were performed during slavery. i still find it quite interesting that in tobago, "heritage" seems to equate to slavery... i had hoped it would be some concrete african traditions but you really have to play "blue's clues" to find the connections. 

as soon as they were about to begin the play, it started to rain. it was subtle at first, so many didn't move, but all of a sudden it started pouring and the wind came! i ran under the tent where the electronic sound system was (bad idea now that i think about it.. lol). the wind blew the rain right in on me.. so, 1/2 of me was dry and 1/2 of me was completely soaked and dirty. after the rain left, i grabbed a nice seat in front of the crowd, because the heritage festival is supposed to be a part of my research project. so, i was trying to get some good footage. i was getting so annoyed though for many reasons.... there was a lady sitting next to me just snorting and gulping back her snot... this is the second time this year i have found one of these snorting people.. JUST BLOW YOUR NOSE! eww.... even though i was soaking wet, i was okay with the rain. i did want one of the free umbrellas they were giving out though because the rain would come and go. when i went over to the booth, i saw the attendant give away 2 umbrellas to one person and then tell me she didn't have anymore. then later, i saw her give out some more. -_- ... it also seemed like people would just find my line of sight and stand directly in my way. no matter where i went. it made it hard to get footage of the events and i have a audio/visual portion of my research to do. i don't want to turn in some sloppy work. people would literally get to me and decide that that's where they wanted to stop....there were kids just sitting in the middle of the stage in my way. GET YO KIDS OFF THE DAMN STAGE! my momma woulda gave me a whooping if i was up there all laid out on the stage... every time i would get up to take a picture or video (i would have to get up when people kept standing in my way), someone would steal my seat! i'm like.. "YOU JUST SAW ME GET UP.. AND U SAW WHERE I WENT.. YOU SAW WHAT I WAS DOING.. AND YOU REALLY 'BOUT TO JUST SIT DOWN? FORREAL?" it happened at least three times. and i would have to go search for another seat. i was really frustrated. if it weren't for the play, i probably would have let it get to me.

but the play was really good and i really got into it. there were these two women, one of them the bride's mother and the other her friend, who were talking about their relationships. the mother of the bride's husband beat her and her daughter and didn't care about them at all. he was mean and left them. the other lady bossed her husband around but he loved her and loved to please her (and, she was given him that good loving.. [i'm so serious. lol]). she was big and loud and didn't take any mess. they were telling the story in flashbacks.. and when they got close to the present, the wedding, the mean husband shows up and says he heard his daughter was getting married. he's all remorseful and wants his family back. but, the lady is like "no.. you need to go! you don't have a family..." and the big bossy lady tries to help her, but she's like "naw.. mind ya business. i can handle it." so.. the story is laced with all these morals and lessons. it reminded me of "nollywood" films from nigeria and was really good. in between the story, there would be dancing that was done during the slavery weddings. some of them were ones we had learned the day before. remember "what billy do make dem put him in jail oh?"



i was still trying to capture moments of the play when lavergne and the rest of the crew were getting ready to go. i was slick amazed... cause i knew it wasn't over... we hadn't actually really seen the wedding yet as far as i could tell. lavergne said she'd never seen the entire thing before. so, apparently it goes on for a long time... but dang, i thought we would have stayed longer. it seemed like an hour and 1/2 went by and then it was time to go. the drive there seems like it took longer than we were actually there. i wasn't even able to get a lot of footage. and also, like... they know my research project is the tobago heritage festival... the festival has events going on for a couple of weeks. we were on the island for 3 days and only did 1 event (even though our schedules say "cultural event" during the night time slots on some of the days.. and they had us write in "pageant/play" under one night, and we didn't do that either) AND we didn't even stay that long at the one we actually went to. it's kind of fucked up because my paper is really not going to have the observational evidence that it needs to be successful. i kind of feel like i got screwed over. the social coordinators are supposed to help us get those kinds of things together... gimme a calendar of events.. suggest ones for me to go to... organize some travel for me... drop me off at the tobago library... at least let me stay long at the one we're at. i mean really.. damn? i'm going to have to contact a few of our lecturers who are from tobago to get some information.. and even then, i feel like it still won't be good enough.  i don't like turning in sloppy work especially because it's the director of my program who is going to be grading these.

we i got back with the group, they were complaining about... i really don't know.. i guess the whole event. and they didn't know what the play was about. so, i'm sure that's at least a part of the reason why we left. because, if everyone was openly having a great time, we would have stayed longer. anyways, we went back to the rooms, chilled, and went to sleep. if you're wondering what i've been eating, it was that church's chicken! lol. the sides taste the same as they do in america but the chicken is not as greasy and is a little spicy. it's good. i'm still mad about those baby-sized sides though. 

papa.... paparazzi.

so, we made the "trini scene" when we were at "woodford cafe" liming. i'm in a couple of photos.

http://triniscene.com/tsv7/galleries/?page=iframe&id=GAL0B4138

edit: and also the woodford cafe facebook page. smh.
at least i'm gettin down tho.. lol. 

day eight - TOBAGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

my my my. when i woke up, i got to see a glimpse of the beauty of tobago. our "bed minus the breakfast" (called "store bay holiday resort") is very nice... painted yellow with lush tropical greens and brightly colored flowers everywhere. even though there are goats in the backyard (and chickens... saw a chicken just walking around the lobby), it is very nice. my room has a big kitchen and huge shower.

we had to get up super early for our workshop. we hopped on a bus and headed to a local school. i wish i could tell you our teacher’s name but it was slick really difficult to figure out. if i tried to type what i heard.. it would probably look like “sdfjbskdfehgor eoeterbsdvk.” lol. so yeah.. i’ll just skip that. but she was really nice and really informative. it's my own fault for not getting her name down. she said it a couple of times and i was too afraid to ask her to repeat it again. our workshop was a music workshop! we learned some of the traditional tobagonians dances and songs that would be performed at the tobago heritage festival. my research project while here is to basically see how tobagonians perceive themselves to be linked to africa and how the heritage festival fits into that story. however, their traditions, so far, look a lot like connections to slavery and not necessarily africa to me. some of the funeral dances looked definitely african. besides the fact that many african societies would dance and try to celebrate someone’s death, the moves themselves looked african. however, a lot of the jigs and stuff we learned, displayed definite traces of its colonial past. most of the dances and songs we learned were going to be performed during the "moriah - old time wedding," which is a reenactment of the wedding rituals performed during slavery. the workshop was so much fun though. we learned a song or two... this one is done in "call-in-response" form (african tradition that you find a lot in american jazz, blues.. and in black churches)...

"billy gone a jail oh
billy gone a jail oh
billy gone a jail oh
billy gone a jail oh
what billy do make dem put him in jail oh?
me no know boy, me no know
what billy do make dem put him in jail oh?
me no know boy, me no know"

we also danced. 



after all that dancing, we were so hot and tired. we went down the road for some cold drinks and waited for our bus to arrive. i was so hot and thirsty. i went ahead and spent some money and that was the best gatorade i've ever had. after the bus showed up, we went to "fort king george," an old fort built by the british. it offered great views of the island and some history on the area.


after the fort. we came back to hotel to chill for a while. shannon and i went to the really nice pool and splashed around for a few hours... and then.. IT WAS CHURCH'S CHICKEN TIME! guess who was at the register? the same chick from the day before who was basically a bitch to us. and she was a bitch this time too. just had a real attitude. and the church's chicken was definitely a slick sham.. because, shannon and i got the 10 piece with 5 sides. they didn't have okra on the menu but i'm thinking.. "family meal.. yes!, i want mashed potatoes, corn on the cob, biscuits, cole slaw, and one of these random other items... jalapeno poppers or something." the corn on the cob and random items were "add-ons"... not sides.. apparently.. and they didn't even have any more cole slaw. and and and... the sides weren't family sized styles i would expect from a family meal... no... they were individually sized sides. -_- they gave us 3 individually sized  mashed potatoes and LITERALLY 2 biscuits. TWO. ... those little sides... and then we got 10 pieces of chicken. what kind of unbalanced offering is that? we got enough chicken to last for days and days but we been having to basically taste the sides... i been eating my biscuit in 1/4ths. lol. it's kind of a mess.

we ate and chilled out. i then we went liming. the walk was pretty far and when we got there, there was a cover charge of 40 TT$ (not a lot america.. but im broke in tobago... so........ that's a lot. lol). the club was called "the shade" and it was like an outdoor nightclub under a large gazebo. it was really awesome. of course, i had to get on the dance floor. no one was really dancing at first and i was afraid it was going to be like woodford cafe... however, after a while, everyone was dancing. and it became a situation of too many guys... not enough girls, and your scared to dance almost because guys are like stalking yah... if they see you moving to good to a song, here they come! but, we had a blast... and i'm starting to really like a lot of the caribbean songs. I LOVE TO LIME! that's all i can say...